Skin Deep: A Dermatologist’s Guide to the Science of Skin Care

Board certified dermatologist Nancy Lee Silverberg is well aware of patient confusion about the huge array of skin products available, often with high costs and overly dramatic claims. With the cosmetics and skin care market reaching $185 billion in 2025 and largely ignored by the Food and Drug Administration, the author’s goal is to share which product ingredients are backed by clinical studies data and science.

Using her 35 years of experience treating more than 25,000 patients, Silverberg starts with the basics: skin components and effects of sun (photoaging) plus other skin aging issues. She reviews sun protection products, describing physical sun blocks such as zinc oxide and the dangers of chemical sunscreens with oxybenzone. The good news, she notes, is that daily sunscreen use doesn’t cause vitamin D deficiency.

The author points out that the effects of moisturizers with vitamin additives are unproven, and fragrances and coloring agents can sensitize and cause dermatitis. Certain chemical preservatives may be potentially unsafe, she warns, and are being investigated for safety. Yet natural preservatives don’t protect from bacteria contamination.

On the plus side, the antiaging natural acids called alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHA) show well-documented effectiveness. Covering vitamin A retinoids, she reports that the over-the counter retinoid derivative retinaldehyde can be useful treating photoaged skin, with a lower frequency of irritation than tretinoin.

Cleansing, anti-acne, nail and hair products also receive a close look at effectiveness and possible side effects.

This is a slim book, but every page is packed with useful information. Silverberg cuts through the hype with up-to-date research, and writes in an easy-to-understand manner than doesn’t talk down to readers but also isn’t complicated with excessive jargon. Without promoting specific products or diving too deeply into clinical data, she explains in layman’s terms which ingredients work, are safe and worth the investment.

In short, this is a terrific book to keep handy as a trusted resource when choosing skincare products.

Also available as an ebook.